Archive for July, 2011

‘Lost’ in Hell Dorado, Part One

Last year at GenCon, I purchased a few starters for a new-ish skirmish game from Cipher Studios called Hell Dorado. It’s a game that pits different forces against each other at the mouth of Hell, which seems to be somewhere in Europe, I think. Actually, I haven’t read much of the fluff yet, so don’t quote me on that.

I love me some skirmish gaming, and recently I built and started work on painting up the ‘Lost’ faction starter, which is all lizardmen. The scuplts are really cool.

Primed and basecoated in one step

Being lizards, I figured that green would be a good base color to start with, and if I could prime and basecoat all in the same can, then all the better. I fell back on one of my old favorites, Krylon Camouflage Paint. The color I used here was the ‘Woodland Light Green’ flavor. This stuff is technically designed to stick to plastic, but it sticks to metal quite nicely, too. And it has a really nice ultra-flat surface which makes it great to paint on top of.

Now that these guys are dry, the next step will be to hit them all with a wash. I’m thinking about slobbering them all in a brown wash like Games Workshop’s Delvan Mud, and then adding a wash of the Badab Black wash to the undersides of the models (underarms, between the legs, etc.) to create shadow areas. As soon as I do that, I’ll let you know how they look in Part Two.

Beginning the Black Legion Paint Scheme

This time of year is a bit tough for me, as work gets really, really busy in a big buildup to one huge week-long event, and then three days after that finishes, I’m on the road to GenCon. So the posting has been slow, but I’ve been keeping busy during my not-posting time. Take a look at some work in progress Chaos Space Marines painted in a Black Legion scheme:

The first three Black Legion models - a work in progress (WIP)

This is still pretty early progress. At this point, the steps go roughly as follows: they were primed black and ‘dusted’ with grey primer (as mentioned previously) and then drybrushed in the raised areas with a grey paint only slightly lighter than the dark grey primer. Then they were washed with Badab Black wash all over except for tops of heads, tops of shoulder pads, tops of arms, etc. Next, Boltgun Metal wash added to the trim on the legs, feet, gloves and backpack exhaust ports, and Burnished Gold was added to the trim on the shoulder pads. Lastly, the entire model was washed in Delvan Mud (even the areas I missed with the Badab Black) and then highlights were picked out on the metal trim areas and painted with slightly thinned versions of their original metallic colors.

I’m mostly happy with the depth that the dark grey primer and drybrushing steps added to the main ‘black’ armor areas, and the layers of black and brown washes really helped make the ‘black’ areas seem less grey, yet not totally black and flat.

Before (primed black and then 'dusted' dark grey and drybrushed in the raised areas) and after (metallic details and black and brown washes)

Next, I need to work on the boltguns, which will be mostly dark silver with some scuffed black bits, and then I need to do the non-metallic details, which are mainly skulls and horns. Both will be painted nearly the same: a basecoat of a dark brown, then an off-white coat (probably Bleached Bone from Games Workshop), then some Delvan Mud or Gryphonne Sepia washes, and then some more drybrushed highlights with the off-white color again. Then I have to figure out how I want to handle the details on the backpacks, then a final run-through and it’ll be time to do the basing, which I already have figured out.

I’m really looking figured to having these first few guys done, because once you figure out a method to your paint ‘recipe’, it makes the painting go a lot quicker. And like most Warhammer 40,000 armies, I have a lot of guys to paint. As an experiment, I’m trying to paint in smaller groups now because staring at 10 nearly-identical figures that all need to be painted assembly-line style is pretty daunting, but smaller groups of three to five is much less so. I’ll let you know how it goes.

Battles and Basecoats

I was recently invited to a Warhammer 40k gaming day at a friend of a friend’s house. I was told to bring a 400-point Combat Patrol list and a 1000-point list. Upon the completion of my daemon prince model and the near-completion of my dreadnought, I finally had enough figures to actually build a 1000-point list. It was pretty exciting.

We played up in Appleton at Zach’s house. I had never been there before, but he was really friendly and I knew all the other guys there, so it was great. I ended up getting into a game with Kelly and Karl. Kelly had 1000-points of Blood Angels and I had my 1000-points of Chaos Space Marines. We teamed up and played against Karl and his 2000-point Imperial Guard list. He had tanks and airplanes and wildebeests and the circa-1980s G.I. Joe aircraft carrier and a magical man named Marbo who killed an entire squad of Plague Marines (except one lone guy) with a single shot. No armor save. No Feel No Pain. Nothing.  It was kinda harsh.

I brought a newly finished piece of terrain to play with, and snipers hid in it most of the game, which was good

However, we actually won the game, but only because the game ended on turn five (in many Warhammer 40k scenarios, you roll a D6 on turn five to see if the game ends, then you try an easier roll on turn six, and if the game is still going it must end at the end of turn seven) so that helped us out. I have no doubt in my mind that if the game had gone to turn six, the forces that Kelly and I still had left would have needed to be cleaned off the board with club soda.

I’m saying we would have left nothing behind but a stain. Not even a big one.

But it was a lot of fun and I look forward to doing it again and look forward to when I can host a game day like that in the Nerd Bunker. Things are progressing on that front.

Also progressing is the painting of my Chaos Space Marine forces. After figuring out how I would be basing them and doing some tests towards that end, I then based five of my normal CSM troopers and primed them black. They will be painted as Black Legion, so they’ll be mostly black and gold and a bit of silver. However, you never actually paint a black thing just straight ‘black’ in miniatures painting. Instead, you paint it a very dark grey. This allows you to darken parts of the model to add ‘shadow’ to the ‘black’ parts of the model. If you just primed the figure black, then you couldn’t make it any blacker, technically. Therefore, to trick the eye and give these small models more depth, you paint a ‘black’ model nearly black.

Dark grey basecoated model on the left, primed black model on the right

I realized that the primer I love to use (Duplicolor Sandable Primer) comes in black and also dark grey. Therefore, if I primed in black, and then oversprayed at a 45-degree angle with the dark grey, I would get both a nice middle zone and highlight zone of the dark grey color, and the shadow zones would stay primer black because the dark grey paint wouldn’t hit those areas. Don’t worry if this doesn’t make sense; if these first five models work out well, then I’ll probably make a step-by-step tutorial on this technique later on, with diagrams and whatnot. All that’s important at this point is that I got five models basecoated and I was happy with the results. Now, it’s time to move on to the next steps as soon as I figure out what they are.


atom smashing

A gaming blog talking about miniatures games, miniatures painting and collecting, game design and other nerdly delights.


The Statistics – 2013

Minis games played:
• WH40k (1850 pts):
   BT/GK vs Kevin (Eldar/DE) LOST
• WH40k (1500 pts):
   BT vs Jason (D.E.) LOST
• WH40k (1500 pts):
   BT vs Kevin (S.W.) LOST
Minis finished:
 none yet
Terrain finished:
 none yet
Cons attended:
 Fire & Ice
updated 28FEB2013

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